Super new application for working with photos called Affinity Photo. I’m really enjoying it and it seems like it is a proper alternative to Photoshop. I’m sure there are not all the facilities as you can find in the Photoshop application, but you probably don’t need or use most of what’s in PS anyway.
As much as I love using my NEX 6 Sony mirrorless camera for the quality and the experience of using a proper camera to shoot photos, sometimes it is very quick and handy to whip out the iPhone and take the picture. I do find that it is faster to get to the point where I can shoot a photo with the iPhone. There is a little slider that you can use from the lock screen which will take you directly into the camera application so that you can be ready to shoot within seconds. There are times when I could have the iPhone out of my pocket, picture taken and the phone back in the pocket before I would have got the proper camera booted up and ready to take the picture. Photography though is not just about quick snapshots, it is also about considered photos capturing a specific scene, a delightful composition, a special moment that needs to be set up just right or a piece of photographic art. There is absolutely no reason at all why you shouldn’t use the iPhone to do this sort of photographic work in many situations.
ShoulderPod S1 for iPhoneography
When to use the camera on the phone and when to use the big sensor camera
Seeing as photography is all about catching light, the first question to be asked is about how much light do we have for our photograph. If we have the best light where we know we are going to get a great picture whatever camera use, then why not use the megapixels on our camera phone. We can take advantage of the touchscreen where we can set focusing and the exposure control using our fingers on the screen. Yes, I know there are some cameras that do have touchscreens also.
Always in the pocket.
Another advantage of the iPhone camera is that you always have it with you. I know that my iPhone is always in my pocket and it is good to know that photography is always with me. Well, not always because if the light is low then I know I’m not going to get a good picture from my iPhone. The images get very grainy, very quickly. There are some applications that you can use which will give you more control such as Camera Plus and it is very easy to change from shooting photos to shooting video. With Camera Plus I like the way that I could set the camera up to connect with my iPad. I can put the iPhone in a specific position where I would not be able to see what the camera is seeing, but then connected to the iPad over Wi-Fi or Bluetooth I would be able to control the iPhone camera from the iPad. It is another creative option available.
Camera apps I have on my iPhone and iPad now
- Camera Plus
- Pencil Camera
- Paper camera
- Apple iOS camera app
- Is the gram
- Slow Shutter
- ProCam XL
- FiLMiC Pro
Some of these applications on the list are more suited to or dedicated to shooting iPhone video. The application I use most of all would be the Apple iOS Camera App and this is because it is the application most easy to get at. It is also the application most used because I am accustomed to the way it works. It is also easy to use and I would have to spend less time researching what each of the settings can do.
Getting the settings correct.
One of the problems of using different applications for different photographic situations is that it is very easy to mess a photo by having the incorrect settings. This could be that the last time you used the application you changed some of the settings to suit a specific purpose. The next time that you pick it up, those settings that were saved from the last time no longer apply to the type of photo you want to take. What would be really handy on any of these photo applications would be to have a button that would quickly take you back to default settings.
The Photosphere and also the HyperLapse application are specific to a specialised branch of photography. I really enjoy taking the photos where it is as if you were inside a bubble and you can do a 360° view of your situation. It is great to be able to post these onto Google+ so that other people can see what it was that you saw.
## The joys of iPhone photography
I won’t be giving up my Sony NEX 6 camera any time soon. In fact, only yesterday I took it to my favourite beach nearby and used it for taking photos. I was able to shoot with a long lens of surfers out on the waves. The iPhone 6 camera is good but would not have worked as well for that photo event. What is really good is to have choices of which kit to use for whatever situation and the iPhone 6 is good for that. It gives me extra creative options as well as being the camera that I always have about my person. Long live iPhoneography!
Summertime Blues and other colours
A lot of people look forward to the summer time for various reasons, such as having some time off from work and being able to enjoy better weather. The better weather and the longer days meaning that it is possible to go out and do more things than you are able to do during the wintertime. In some ways, it is the other way round for me during the summertime because I work during the summer in a camping site and I won’t get any time off until October. Working six days a week it becomes quite difficult to find the time and the energy to go out and shoot some photos with my Sony NEX-6 camera. I often find that at the end of a shift of working I’m quite tired or very hungry and all I want to do is to get home and to scratch whichever itch needs scratching. Quite often it will be a case of getting some food and then some snoozing time on the sofa! Last Sunday though, was a good day because I went out to the market and I hung around with my camera amongst all of the people and the fruit and vegetables.
My photographic plan for the market
I had to make a choice between the wide-angle 16mm lens and my 55 to 210 mm zoom lens. With the wide-angle lens I’m able to take pictures of people close up and sometimes they don’t know that I am taking the picture because it is such a wide angle being captured. On the other hand, I can use my zoom lens in a situation like at the market and not necessarily be noticed because people are busy looking at the goods and other people around the market. For this particular trip to the market I decided to go with the long lens and my aim was to do close-up portrait street photography with getting in as close as possible to faces. It turned out to be a particular good choice and the only problem I had was a Moroccan market trader waving at me because he didn’t seem to like having his photo taken. I waved back to him and I moved to somewhere else. I spent a couple of hours, maybe less, taking photos and I was quite pleased with the results when I got back home and put them into Aperture on the iMac. I also did take a few photos of the produce available on sale by themselves as well as the colourful fruits and vegetables being included in my street portraits. See more Spondicious photos on Flickr.
Sitting at the water fountain in the St. Feliu de Guixols marketplace
I bumped up the ISO on the NEX-6 camera even though it was quite sunny because some of the shots that I took, the subjects were in the shade provided by the stalls of the market. This also allowed me to get a fairly high shutter speed while I was shooting in aperture priority mode. There was a guy sitting on a stool in amongst the fruit boxes and the crates and he was just looking around, not working terribly hard. Maybe he had done as much selling for the day as he wanted to. He was just lazily looking around at people in the market and was a perfect subject for some street portraiture. At first I did have the camera set to take multiple shots on pressing the button and this can be quite useful when people are moving, but I found that I didn’t really need it so I turned that feature off.
Although it is possible to stay in one place and wait for the people to go past, which is good if you have a particularly good background to work with, I do like to have a wander around and to find new positions. When I do this I end up with a more varied set photos than if I was to stay in one place. What I was looking for was to find expressive faces that were going to give me an interesting story to tell with the photo. These sorts of expressions tend to occur more when there are two or more people together taking part in a conversation. I saw that there were two old guys having a chat animatedly using their hands as part of the conversation and I was very pleased with the photos I got of these fellas.
What! Very little or no postprocessing?
My photos were getting uploaded to Google automatically and I found that a number of the photos were good enough that I didn’t need to crop them or to fiddle with them in any way. All I did was to add a few words to the picture and posted them to various places in Google+. Street Hunters Community is a good place to send some Street photos. Usually I like to do some postprocessing in order to give the photos more umph and power. With a good number of these photos taken in the market I didn’t feel the need to work on them further in Intensify Pro or even use some of the tools available within the editing facilities in Google+. I did crop a couple of the photos where there was a person or even just somebody’s elbow poking into the shot in order to tidy things up slightly.
There was an offer on a website recently, MacHeist, that often has bundles of software available with amazing discounts. The latest offer included the application Intensify Pro. I had been trying the software previously, but didn’t buy it because I didn’t want to spend the money. The other software that was in the MacHeist bundle wasn’t really interesting to me, but at the same time the price overall was $40 cheaper than buying the application from the developer direct.
What does Intensify Pro do?
What the application is, is a set of adjustments and filters for photos to enhance to a greater level than is possible that I can already do within Aperture. There are a number of presets which work in the same way as other applications giving you filters to turn a good photograph into something that looks like it should be thrown into the Instagram bin (Or not!). This doesn’t mean that you can’t work with these filters in a subtle way.
I like the photos that I put up for public viewing to be full of power and punch and possibly I would use these settings a little bit further than would some other photographers. It is possible with this application to get an effect that goes along the lines of high dynamic range HDR photos. There are not quite the same number of possibilities for HDR as I would get by using three bracketed images and the application Photomatix Pro. At the same time though, there are a huge number of settings that can be twiddled with and fiddled with to give a massive range of effects.
Working with Intensify Pro as a plug-in through Aperture
It is very easy to select a photograph in Aperture and to use the menus to get to plug-in applications available such as Intensify Pro. You are taken directly to the plugged-in application where you can make all the changes that you want to make to the photo. As soon as you click on the button to apply the changes that you have made, the application closes and takes you back into Aperture. The version of the photo in Aperture is not altered and your new photograph is added to a stack next to the original.
Stacking the layers in Intensify Pro
It is possible to make a range of settings using one of the tools in the application and it is also possible to vary that affect by using the opacity tool. What you can also do is to add another layer where you use a different type of set of settings and once again use the opacity tool. With this you can further intensify your photograph with an infinite number of visual possibilities.
There are brush and eraser tools that you can use to mask on and off the effects that you are applying and there is even a gradient tool. This could be very useful where you want to have a colour or affect applied to the photograph in a way that only affects the top or the bottom of the photo and is gradually changed in intensity across the photo.
Getting creative with Intensify Pro
There are a lot of choices that you can make with both the presets that are available and the settings used to make those presets. With all of this configurability you can make both stunning and also dreadful images. It is known already that the beauty is in the eye of the beholder and I say that if you like it then do it. We should all be making images that are for ourselves and our own artistic sensibilities and are not just there to please the general public. Now go and create something!
Using Magic Lantern on the Canon 600D
When you get a new camera, even if it is one that is an upgrade to a model that you have owned previously, you need to spend time learning all of the menus in the camera software. Cameras are getting more and more complicated and sophisticated, so without a doubt you need to spend some time delving into the insides of the operating system. My Canon 600D is pretty intuitive to use, certainly as far as the various modes of taking pictures. I do use manual mode on occasions and I particularly like the ease of using aperture priority or shutter speed priority. I don’t tend to use the program mode setting that is the P setting that some beginners seem to think stands for professional.
Even more complicated with the addition of Magic Lantern
There are a few additions that you get by the use of Magic Lantern and the main one for me is the fact that it gives me some meters for the levels of the sound recording. This is particularly important for me as I bought the camera mainly for the purpose of recording video. Magic Lantern does also add settings for HDR bracketed shots. It is possible to do that with the standard software, but I can do it quicker with Magic Lantern.
If I decide that I would like to do some timelapse photography, there are some excellent extra tools within Magic Lantern. The intervalometer is very easy to set up, so that I can record a clip every certain number of seconds. I can set the duration for the video clip, for example I might ask it to stop recording after four seconds. If I am running a timelapse which is going from day to night I can also use a setting which will take care of bulb ramping.
There are also a number of focusing tools available. You can do things like turn on the Trap Focus. There is also a simple follow focus that you can operate using the arrow keys. Within the focus settings there are plenty of settings to play with and really it is recommended to have a good read of the manual for Magic Lantern.
Magic Lantern tweaks
It is all well and good that on camera, you also have some help information for Magic Lantern. To get to this you click on the info button on your camera while you have the Magic Lantern menus in front of you. The help that you get depends upon exactly what you are looking at in the menus. Looking through all of the menus within Magic Lantern, I have to say that there are some weird and wonderful menu options. One of the options is to click on the button which says ‘Don’t click me!’ The hint at the bottom of the screen tells you that if you do click it, the camera may turn into a 1DX or may explode. Obviously the developer of the Magic Lantern software has a sense of humour.
Installing Magic Lantern can be tricky
Well it can be tricky, but I honestly found it easy enough by just carefully following the instructions that came with the software. You have to install the Magic Lantern software on each of the memory cards that you use in the camera. This way the Magic Lantern software is able to work as an add-on to the standard Canon camera software.
Where I tend to have most difficulty using this Magic Lantern, is in the area of knowing which buttons to press to change the ISO setting. I really need to spend some more time studying how the whole thing works. When you are out and about and you want to take some photographs, you really don’t want to spend all of the time struggling with menus. Like most things that involve software with numerous menus, capabilities, functionality and complicated stuff, it is really best to learn these things one small step at a time.
Excellent software – Well worth having
That is no doubt that within the DSLR filmmaking community that the Magic Lantern software is highly regarded. There are many that consider that Magic Lantern is an essential step to take when you are using cameras, such as the Canon 550D. 600D or the Canon 5D Mark 2. Certainly the extra software is very useful and well worth getting, you just have to spend the time to get to know the ins and outs of how it works, that’s all.
I will make some more posts on here looking at Magic Lantern in more depth. I will dive into one section at a time and post my findings on the Spondicious Blog.
A photography trip to Aragón
It was Easter weekend and it seemed that we should get away and do something rather than hanging around the house. So we went to a place called Alquézar in the region of Aragón. This region is not quite the Pyrenees and it is more large hills rather than mountains. There was plenty of landscape and nature to use as subject matter for photography. I had my Canon 600D in my hand, just about the whole time while there.
High saturation and contrast equals good art
The town itself was extremely picturesque, as a lot of money had been spent on the restoration of the old town. It is quite reminiscent of Pals which is closer to home. Lots of small streets that were quite like a maze and there was even a street called Calle Dragones, Dragons Street. Many of the photographs that I shot while in Alquézar were to be HDR photos, that I intended to work on later, back at base on the computer using the application Photomatix Pro. I am finding though, that when using RAW photos I can get the sort of image that I like, just using a standard RAW image adjusted in iPhoto. I like to have photos that have bright colours and high saturation and a good amount of contrast. They don’t necessarily look totally realistic, but they are in my opinion, good art.
Using Photomatix Pro
This application has improved since I first bought it and it has a number of default options that you can use. Initially there were only two options originally, one was Tone Mapping which was the one that I chose to get the typical HDR image. The other setting to something which was more like a standard photograph, but with a slightly wider range of tones. With the later version of Photomatix Pro, you get defaults such as Enhancer grunge, painterly, Compressor default or Compressor deep and Fusion intensive or Fusion two images. So you have three basic styles – compressor, fusion and enhancer. My favourite would probably be the Compressor – Deep default setting.
It depends upon the photo
If you have a photo that doesn’t have much sky in it, then the Enhancer – Painterly can look quite good. Using the same settings on an image with a lot of blue sky can look awful. Using the setting of Enhancer – Grunge will look pretty awful whatever photo you are using it with. The 11 default settings that you have available that are going to get started, but you can also make further adjustments to the way the photo is processed finally.
You can also decide to first of all choose the process you want to use, either tone mapping or exposure fusion and then just play with the sliders until you get something you like. It would be a good idea then, to save your setup as presets for yourself to use later. The number sliders that you get to play with depends upon the choice of process and method which is your starting point. You can make it so that the photo will have all of the details enhanced, so that you have an ultra-sharp image that is hyperrealistic. Or you can have the tone compression which gives a smoother look. Once you have chosen your required look, you just have to click on process and then save the image. See below for examples of the same image with two different conversions. The first one is the painterly effect and the other uses the compressor deep effect.
Stuck in Customs
The person that is most famous online for his HDR photography is a fellow called Trey Ratcliff, otherwise known as Stuck in Customs. He does some amazing shots all around the world and I have been following his work on Flickr for a few years now. Interestingly, it was Trey who has recently suggested that the EVIL cameras are very likely to be taking over from the cameras with mirrors in them, the DSLR cameras that we are used to presently, in the next couple of years. I am discussing this type of camera, the Electronic Viewfinder Interchangeable Lens, on the EvilPhotography website. I almost wish that I had bought the Panasonic GH2 or waited for the Sony NEX–7 rather than the Canon 600D, even though there are some advantages to having the Canon.
Meanwhile back in Alquézar
I had a very enjoyable time taking around 400 photographs while in Alquézar. Of course, all of the photos were nature type photos, which is okay, even though I do more often have the urge to take urban grunge type images. I was quite pleased to shoot an image of a flower, just because it was the smallest ever daffodil, narcissus flower that I had ever seen. The images that were shot of the town were all very picturesque and could not at all be described as urban. Certainly I could have spent another couple of days shooting photos in this region.
It is all about the glass – The Canon nifty 50
For taking good photographs and getting that narrow depth of field with your subject perfectly in focus and the background nicely out of focus you need to have a faster lens. Opening up the aperture so that you have it as wide as the lens will let you go gives you the narrower depth of field. So being able to go to F 1.8 with the Canon nifty 50 lens will be better than using the kit lens which will only go to about F 3.5. There are other benefits to having a faster lens the main one being that you can let more light reached the sensor. You will be able to get better pictures by being able to let more light through.
Not perfect but very good value for money
Canon has made this F1.8 available at a very good affordable price, somewhere around the $100. My son has one of those Canon lenses that he uses on his Canon 550D and he wants to buy an even better lens. I am lucky that he is willing to sell me his nifty 50 Canon lens. The nifty 50 lens may be a cheap lens but it does give you good results.
Hello and welcome to Spondicious Photography website. What I plan to do with this website is to talk about my camera experiences and how I will use the new camera that I have just bought, which is a Canon 600D which is also known as the T3i. Mainly I planned to buy this camera because of wanting to have more control over the video that I can shoot. Up until now for the video I have been using a Canon Vixia to shoot video. It is a good video camera and gives me good results, but is not quite so easy to set up and control. Especially things like the white balance, which I have to change when I am working with my green screen. I will still be using the Canon Vixia, so it will be handy to have two cameras to use on a video shoot.
The decision process for buying this latest camera
My son has the Canon 550D and it is a very good camera that produces excellent results. I would have bought the same camera, but I do need to have the swivel video display on the rear. This is because often I am filming myself without any help and I need to be able to see what is I’m shooting. There are not many other differences between this camera and the 600D that I purchased. Just like with using the 550D I’m also able to add the Magic Lantern software to the 600D to add extra functionality to the camera.
The camera that I looked at that I would perhaps preferred to have bought, was the Panasonic GH2 which has a very good reputation for shooting video. It has less of a problem with the rolling shutter effect, which is to do with lines that are introduced into the pictures when you do a fast pan from left to right or right to left. The Panasonic also has the ability to follow focus which is very useful when you have the subject coming towards you or going away from you while shooting video. With the Canon you would probably have to follow the focus manually and depending on the lens that could be a little bit fiddly.
There were a number of reasons which brought me to buying the Canon 600D instead of the Panasonic and the first of those reasons was the cost. The Panasonic was quite a bit more than the Canon and although the advantages of having the Panasonic were worth paying for, the funds in my wallet didn’t stretch that far. I still wonder if I should have just waited and saved up some more money. Another good thing with the Canon, is that it is possible to buy a battery handgrip which adds two more batteries so that I could have longer video shooting time. I didn’t seem to find a similar item for the Panasonic. Another influence on the purchase was the availability of lenses for the cameras, the Canon having a greater variety of lenses available. The thing with the lenses was not really a deal breaker, because the lenses that I would require for the Panasonic were actually available. The size of the sensor in the Panasonic is quite a bit smaller than the sensor in the Canon 600D and that did influence my decision to a certain extent. In some ways it was no big deal because the images from the Panasonic to a large extent were just as good, certainly as far as the video shooting was concerned. The larger the sensor is, the better the capability of the camera for capturing light, although there may be also some difference concerning the quality of the sensor and the software that runs the sensor.
Adding extra functionality with Magic Lantern
The Magic Lantern software is a free third-party software that adds quite a lot of extra capabilities and functionality to the Canon cameras. It was initially developed for use with the Canon 5D Mk 2, but was also ported to work with other cameras including the 550D and the 600D. Magic Lantern gives extra features in terms of still photography such as allowing longer exposures and easier setup of HDR photos, but where the software really excels is with the assistance it gives with shooting video. Originally the Magic Lantern software was developed in order to deal with audio problems, such as turning off the automatic gain control within the camera, so that better sound could be captured by using something like the Juiced Link preamplifier.
Once the developer of Magic Lantern had found that he could easily add these extra functions, with this software that sits on top of the Canon software within the camera, he also developed extra functionality and Magic Lantern just keeps getting better. Within this software you also get zebra stripes to help you get the exposure correct and there are also tools in there to help you set up the correct focus. It is also useful that Magic Lantern gives you an intervalometer so that you can do time lapse photography. Look out for a complete article about how I use the Magic Lantern software and what it can do.
Other photography kit
I already have a studio setup with a green screen and with lights to properly light the green screen. I have a set of LED type lights for this purpose. I also have a small LED light, the type that you can fit to the top of your camera if you wish. Generally I use that to light my subject with the light at the top of a light stand. I also have a small grey card / white balance card that I can use to set the exposure and white balance to suit the lighting. This is a very handy tool, especially because I can use it to set things right even when I’m working on my own in the studio. I also have a couple of light umbrellas that I can use with those lights or with the Nikon SB25 battery-operated strobe lights. I have one soft box which I don’t really have set up properly yet. I should really try and make it so that one of the LED lights are used for the main lighting of the subject, works with that soft box.
Sure and steady with a tripod
I have a good tripod to use for the video work in the studio, I don’t tend to take it out with me, because it is too heavy for carrying around. I prefer to travel light when I am going to shoot stills or video outdoors and to use the Gorillapod or another small tripod. I do plan later on, to buy another tripod and to use a fluid head for the tripod that is specifically designed for video work. Another particularly useful tool I use, is a monopod, which is very handy for portability and steadying the camera when it is necessary to work quickly and take still take good shots. It is not a very good quality monopod but it does the job.
Home-made video tools
I have already made a tabletop dolly and this tabletop dolly can also be used on a track. I have to make this track still. I want one that will be around a metre or a metre and a half long that I can put on top of either a tripod or a pair of tripods. This adds to the type of shots that I can take with video and can often work better than a standard panning shot. Look out for an article on the website in which I show you the tabletop dolly that I made, how it works and some example video using it.
Due to the DSLR camera ergonomics, it will also be necessary for me to build a rig for using the camera handheld for video and for getting a more stable shot. There are some that I’ve seen that are made from plastic piping which have the advantage of being cheap and there are others which are kind of like a cage. That cage type is usually made from metal and provides handles on either side of the camera. These rigs are quite good, as they also give you places that you can add extras such as lighting, shotgun microphones and even HDMI monitors. Then, on the other hand I could buy a type of rig which I seen available on eBay. This one gives you a rig which you can use the same as the cage type of rig and also can be used as a shoulder rig. This particular rig is not very expensive either and it could be just as well to buy it rather than make one. It could be useful to have one of these shoulder type of rigs that also has a follow focus unit I can fit extra, so that I could have more accurate control of the focus.
Getting set up for sound
At the moment I have a couple of ways of recording sound. I have a shure SM58 microphone which I can connect directly to the camera via the XLR cable with an adapter on the end. This works fairly well and is suitable for the interview style of video shooting with me holding the microphone in my hand. I also have the Zoom H2 portable microphone which can be used to record sound separately. This also works because within Final Cut Pro X there are fairly good facilities for matching sound to the audio track on the video. I also have a microphone which works well with the iPad or even an iPhone that I can use to record a separate audio track and matchup in the same way as I would with the Zoom H2 microphone.
At some point in time I would like to buy a video shotgun microphone. There is a Rode Video Pro microphone which could be suitable for my purposes. Then again what I would really like to get, is an XLR shotgun microphone that I can connect using the Juiced Link CX 231 preamplifier with Phantom Power, to the camera. It would also be nice to have a clip on microphone to use also.
Video photography with the DSLR
As you can tell by most of the text in this article, I am more interested in video photography with this camera, the Canon 600D. I do also expect to continue making still photographs and in particular the HDR style of photo. I will add more to this blog as I add extra equipment and take more photos and video. I could see that in maybe one or two years time, perhaps even sooner than that, if I have the cash available, I might sell this Canon 600D and go the route of the mirror-less or EVIL (Electronic Viewfinder Interchangeable Lenses) camera. I could be tempted by an update to the Panasonic GH2 or perhaps even the Sony NEX-7 which has the advantage of also having the same size sensor as the Canon 600D.